PERCY MARKS

BEAD SET

Bead setting is a generic term for setting a stone directly into metal using gravers, also called burins, which are essentially tiny chisels.

A hole is drilled directly into the metal surface, and then a ball burr is used to make a concave depression just the size of the stone. Some setters will set the stone into that concave depression, and some will use a hart burr to cut a bearing around the edge. Then the stone is inserted into that space, and the gravers or burins are used to lift and push a tiny bit of the metal into and over the edge of the stone.

Then a beading tool, which is simply a steel shaft with a concave dimple cut into the tip, is pushed onto the bit of metal, rounding and smoothing it, pushing it firmly onto the stone, and creating a “bead”.

CLAW SETTING

Long considered the gold standard in engagement ring settings, the claw setting remains the single most popular setting style, used by itself in solitaire

The claw setting uses thin metal claws extending from the base of the ring and holding the diamond in place by resting on its top edge.

This setting style anchors the centre diamond securely in place while raising it above the rest of the ring, creating that raised profile that is so popular.